I recently went walkabout on Madeira and discovered an island that isn’t for the faint of heart

Madeira and its levada footpaths had been on my walking radar for years. So when friends told me of plans to sell their family home in Funchal, and that it was now or never were I to visit them, I jumped at the chance.
‘Bring a jacket for dinner’, they advised, ‘Life’s still a little old-fashioned out here’.